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More to Khajurao than popular belief




Title - More to Khajuraho than popular belief
Author - Vidyadhar Date
Publication - Times Of India
Date - 30\6\96

Khajuraho  has  become  a  major  international   tourist 
attraction,  but partly for the wrong reasons. So  argues 
noted  scholar of art history Devangana Desai,  who  says 
Khajuraho is not synonymous with erotic sculpture.
"When I say I am working on Khajuraho, many people  think 
I am researching erotic sculpture. But erotic figures  do 
not represent even one-tenth of Khajuraho's  sculptures," 
he says.
Nearly  84 figures of jogis (ascetics) are  portrayed  on 
the exterior wall of the Surya and Vishnu temples and can 
be seen at eye level. The Arab traveller, Ibn Batuta, has 
described these ascetics in his writings about Khajuraho.
In  her new book, The Religious Imagery of Khajuraho,  Ms 
Desai  dwells  on  the  other,  more  profound  side   of 
Khajuraho. There are hundreds of images of divinities  in 
the interior halls and exterior walls of its temples, she 
says.   There  are  images  of  Vishnu  in  his   various 
incarnations,  the childhood sports of  Krishna,  notably 
without any reference to Radha, Shiva in his various lila 
murtis,  the  goddes Parvati and  Surya  inhis  different 
aspects.
The 10th and 11th centuries witnessed the culmination  of 
Indian  temple  development at  Khajuraho,  Bhubaneshwar, 
Modhera  and  Thanjavur. Khajuraho  temples  represent  a 
combination of artistic talent and religious aspirations, 
she  says.  The  beauty  of  Khajuraho  is  still   being 
discovered.
Excavations  conducted since 1980 by  the  Archaeological 
Survey  of India in the north-eastern area  of  Khajuraho 
have   revealed  a  complex  of  brick  structures.   Two 
exquisite  images of Vamana have been recently  excavated 
from  the  site and a subsidiary shrine with  an  imageof 
Mahishasuramardini has been found.
In  the south-eastern area, Jain (Digambar) temples  were 
erected  by  merchants  and images  of  the  Tirthankaras 
installed by several individual donors. Khajuraho is  now 
listed among the World Heritage sites by UNESCO.
In  Ms  Desai's  profusely  illustrated  book  which  has 
numerous rare pictures, there is a particularly  striking 
one  of a boar, nine feet in length and with 700  figures 
carvedon   it  of  important  divinities  of  the   Hindu 
pantheon.  These are in 12 neatly carved  rows  including 
different  forms  of Vishnu,  Ganesha,  river  goddesses, 
snake deities, water divinities, the four oceans, Varuna, 
Vayu and Kubera.
The  Varaha  (boar),  noted  for  its  strength,   became 
associated  with  the Creator god Brahma and  later  with 
Vishnu,  who  in  the Puranic myth  enters  the  primeval 
waters and saves the Earth Goddess from the nether world.
In  the  tribal  belt  of central  India,  the  boar  was 
originally a totemic deity of a powerful non-Aryan  tribe 
undergoing  Brahminisation.  Ms Desai says  that  scholar 
Alberuni,  who  accompanied Mahmud  of  Ghazni,  mentions 
Khajuraho,  but a more vivid description is given by  the 
Arab  traveller  Ibn  Batuta  who  visited  it  in   1335 
specially to see the Jogis and their magic.
Subsequently,  the temples of Khajuraho were  practically 
unknown  to  scholars until 1838 when  Capt  T.S.Burt,  a 
British   engineer,   visited  the  area  and   gave   an 
interesting   account.  Devangana  Desai  first   visited 
Khajuraho in 1963 and hasbeen going there regularly since 
1985. "What I like about it apart from its  architectural 
and  sculptural  beauty is that Khajuraho still  has  the 
ambience of a nice village," she says. She is also  happy 

that the Archaeological Survey of India has looked  after 
the heritage site well.
"People blush at the verymention of Khajuraho and hence I 
have attempted to clear the misunderstanding as much as I 
can. I have attempted to sho how the Khajuraho artist had 
tried to express the essence of Indian philosophy in  the 
vocabulary of his time," she observed.







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