Temple Circuit in the Kangra Valley
The prominent temples that the Kangra valley, in Himachal
Pradesh, is famous for are Jwalamukhi, Brajeshwari, Chintpurni
and Naina Devi. There is a major rush of pilgrims throughout
the year, especially during the Navratra festival in April and October.
There
are fascinating legends associated with these shrines, the most popular
of them being that of King Daksh. The story goes that the arrogant king
did not invite Lord Shiva, his son-in-law to a 'yagna', and consequently
his daughter Sati, utterly humiliated, plunged into the sacrificial fire.
Shiva arrived on hearing this, only to find his beloved half burnt. Enraged
he carried her charred body and broke into the 'tandava nritya', the awesome
dance of death. Her charred remains - tongue, breasts, feet and eyes fell
at four places to form the four pilgrimage sites of Jwalamukhi, Brajeshwari,
Chintpurni and Naina Devi. This temple circuit is one of the most popular
ones in North India.
The
Jwalamukhi temple is perched on a ridge
called Kali dhar. The shrine has a gilt dome and soaring pinnacles. Inside
is a square pit, three feet deep with a pathway all around. The rock in
the middle has a crack, through which a gas is emitted, and on lighting
it the gas bursts out into a huge flame, the priest keeps applying the
flame to the gas - which is seen as a blessing of the deity. The shrine
has no idol as such, the emanation of the gas is believed to be a manifestation
of the goddess Jwalaji. The nine flames have been named after goddesses
- Mahakali, Unpurna, Chandi, Hinglaj, Bindhya Basni, Maha Lakshmi, Saraswati,
Ambika and Anji Devi. Jwalamukhi is said to be the spot where the half-burnt
tongue of Sati fell, hence the burning flames or 'tongues' of fire. During
the Mughal period, a fervent devotee from Delhi, Dhianu Bhagat visited
the temple, alongwith several others. Emperor Akbar, his curiousity aroused
at such an exodus from his capital, followed Bhagat. He tried to put the
flames out but failed. Later Akbar visited the temple with Jodha Bai and
presented a solid gold umbrella to the shrine, which can be seen even to
this day. The King of Nepal presented a magnificent bell, which adorns
the front hall. Milk and water is offered to the flames, the 'puja' going
on for the whole day.
The Brajeshwari Devi temple, located
in the old Kangra township, is said to have been built over the charred
breasts of Sati. This shrine, once renown for its great wealth, has been
plundered relentlessly over the ages. The first of the plunderers was Mahmud
of Ghazni, who looted it in 1009. A mosque was built on the ruins and a
garrison was left behind. 35 years later, the local king regained its possession.
The shrine was repaired and a replica of the idol was enshrined. The temple
was filled with gold, silver and diamonds only to be ransacked again in
1360 by Firoz Tughlaq. Later Emperor Akbar visited the shrine with his
dewan, Todar Mal and restored it to its former grandeur. The temple
was razed to the ground by an earthquake in 1905, but a new one came up
the very same year, thanks to the Kangra Restoration Committee.
The Naina Devi temple is located
atop a hill, commanding an awesome view of the Punjab plains on one side
and the Gobind Sagar lake on the other. This is the spot where Sati's eyes
- nain - are believed to have fallen. Some devotees cover the last
few miles of the climb up crawling, this method is called 'sashtang dandvata'.
The puja is performed by thirty priests. The temple is also frequented
by Sikhs. Guru Gobind Singh is believed to have spent some days here.
The Chintpurni temple stands on
the spot where the charred feet of Sati fell. The 'Pindi' or the stone
hall symbolises her feet. The Chintpurni 'mantra' is very popular with
devotees. In recent years the temple has been renovated with the help of
major donations from devotees all over the country.
Himachal Tourism hotels and Yatri Niwas facilities are avilable for
accomodation for the pilgrims at all these sites.


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